Pattern Design by Tracing Photos

Fashion and Costume Design in Quarter Scale

This is currently a work-in-progress. I welcome any observations and/or questions you have as I work on refining these classes. They currently include classes for men and women interested in creating custom-fit Bespoke patterns. To see a sample video go to the Front Upper Torso for Women YouTube. I am committed to keeping all my classes free.

I maintain a Reddit forum Bespoke Sewing Patterns.
You are welcome to contact me directly .
I also enjoy helping people through the Reddit forum Pattern Drafting.

The intial classes focus on using the free Studio graphics program from Silhouette America. I will be adding parallel classes showing how to do pattern design with pencil and paper as I show in my book. I have free introductory classes for using the Studio software at Computer Aided Pattern Design which are referenced in these classes.

Once I have completed these classes I will be creating classes showing how to use more of the graphics functions of Studio to design fabric within the shape of the custom-fit patterns described here. The resulting fabric can then be printed using the services of a company such as Spoonflower to create truly unique wearable art, see Computer Aided Pattern & Fabric Design.

I look forward to any ideas and thoughts you care to share. But PLEASE do not ask me to do addtional research and classes for other computer aided design software. I am focusing on Studio because it is used to drive the print-and-cut equipment from Silhouette America that includes a 24 inch "plotter" capable of cutting both paper patterns as well as fabric for a state-of-the-art desktop CAD/CAM system.

Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale uses a new approach to creating custom-fit Bespoke patterns. It uses 6 quarter-scale photos of a person and 10 measurements. As this approach to pattern design is done using photographs, no in-person fitting is required. This also makes it convenient for a person making their own clothes who does not have a helping hand.

The underlying concept for this approach to Bespoke pattern making is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, accurate patterns can be created that record the size and shape of a specific individual. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.


1. Trace the Photo	2. Measure the Photo	3. Adjust Size with Measurements

These patterns can be used to create Mini-Me dress forms for trial fittings of designs. For Ready-to-Wear (RTW) quarter-scale photos and measurements of commercial dress forms can be used to represent a more general body shape.

The initial patterns recording the size and shape of a body can be converted to Master Patterns (aka Slopers) by adding ease and seam allowances. These Master Patterns can then be used to create designs that require little or no fitting. The companion How to Make Sewing Patterns shows how the Master Patterns (aka Sloper) created using this approach can be changed to create other designs, add collars, sleeves, make pants, etc.

Designs such as necklines can be drawn on the quarter-scale photos then measured and applied directly to adjust full-size Master Patterns. Designs can also be prototyped using Mini-Mes to see how they will look in the fabric to be used.

Designing with Pencil & Paper or Computer
There are two ways to design patterns in quarter scale. One is to use pencil and paper and the other is to use a computer. The computer process is referred to here as Computer Aided Pattern Design (CAPD). Think of this being similar to writing a note. You can easily pick up a pencil and paper to write. Or you can turn on a computer and use a word processing program. If you want to create the two-dimensional design of fabric to intigrate it with Bespoke or RTW patterns as described in Computer Aided Pattern & Fabric Design, using a computer is essential.

The instructions in Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale are written for using pencil and paper. The instructions here include separate classes for using either pencil and paper or a computer. To move between the two there are links [CAPD ] or [P&P]. Clicking on one of the links will select the specific instructions for a given week.

Silhouette America's free Studio program is used for the CAPD classes. It is a graphics program that has the necessary computer aided design functions to create patterns. There are detailed instructions for using all of Studio's CAPD functions on the website Computer Aided Pattern Design. The instructions here show how to use the functions required for specific tasks. Links are included for the CAPD classes that explain in detail how each function is accomplished.

The Classes

Creating a single pattern can require as many as 31 steps to trace the photograph. The videos in these classes are intended as an introduction to the process. References to the pages in Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale are included where the individual steps are described and illustrated.

The classes are created so that the instructions from the website can be viewed in the computer monitor next to the window of the Studio software. Initially the videos can be watched for a quick overview of the process. The videos can then be watched again pausing as necessary while you carry out an individual instruction using the Studio program. The times of each of the videos for the various classes in indicated in parenthesis.

The Measurements and Photographs
Scaling Measurements & Photos (2:43) [ Pencil & Paper (3:19) ]
Back Patterns for Men and Women (6:51, 4:34) [ Pencil & Paper (0:00, 0:00) ]
Front Patterns for Women (5:56, 4:54) [ Pencil & Paper (0:00, 0:00) ]
Front Patterns for Men (3:48, 2:24) [ Pencil & Paper (0:00, 0:00) ]
Fitting in Quarter Scale (4:53) [ Pencil & Paper (0:00) ]
Verify the Fit with Fabric (1:42)
Designing from Master Patterns

Online Class Home Page ► An Introduction ► Week One