Designing from Master Patterns

Once you have a Master Pattern that fits, an unlimited number of designs can be created using the Master Patterns as a base. The basic techniques for doing this are shown on pages 163 through 173 of Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale. How to Make Sewing Patterns has step-by-step instructions showing how to change the Bespoke Master Patterns (aka Slopers) to a variety of different designs for both men and women. Two examples are included here. The first shows how to create a vest suitable for either men or women. The neckline, armscye, and hem are changed for different external design lines and the darts are changed for different internal design lines for side front and side back seams.

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The second example shows the changes required to make a skirt with a contoured waistband that illustrates how to add fullness.

There are two basic ways to create an original design by sketching a quarter-scale photo. You can either transfer the design lines directly to a quarter-scale copy of a Master Pattern. Or you can use a quarter scale ruler to measure the design lines on the photograph and transfer them to a full size Master Pattern.

The first approach allows you to preview the design using a Mini-Me so you can adjust the design, choice of fabric, sewing technique, etc. in a quarter-scale prototype. Once you are happy with the result you can scale it up to a full size pattern. The second approach simply goes directly to the full size pattern with no prototyping.