Pattern Design by Tracing Photos

Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale uses a new approach to creating custom-fit Bespoke patterns. It uses 6 quarter-scale photos of a person and 10 measurements. As this approach to pattern design is done using photographs, no in-person fitting is required. This also makes it convenient for a person making their own clothes who does not have a helping hand.

The underlying concept for this approach to Bespoke pattern making is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, accurate patterns can be created that record the size and shape of a specific individual. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.

1. Trace the Photo	2. Measure the Photo	3. Adjust Size with Measurements

These patterns can be used to create Mini-Me dress forms for trial fittings of designs. For Ready-to-Wear (RTW) quarter-scale photos and measurements of commercial dress forms can be used to represent a more general body shape.

The initial patterns recording the size and shape of a body can be converted to Master Patterns (aka Slopers) by adding ease and seam allowances. These Master Patterns can then be used to create designs that require little or no fitting. The companion How to Make Sewing Patterns shows how the Master Patterns (aka Sloper) can be changed to create other designs, add collars, sleeves, make pants, etc.

The two books for these classes are available from your local library which can request them through interlibrary loan using the information in the Flyer for Libraries.

Designing with Pencil & Paper or Computer
There are two ways to design patterns in quarter scale. One is to use pencil and paper and the other is to use a computer. The computer process is referred to here as Computer Aided Pattern Design (CAPD). Think of this being similar to writing a note. You can easily pick up a pencil and paper to write. Or you can turn on a computer and use a word processing program.

The instructions in Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale are written for using pencil and paper. The instructions here include separate classes for using either pencil and paper or a computer. To move between the two there are links [CAPD ] or [Pencil & Paper]. Clicking on one of the links will select the specific instructions for a given week.

Silhouette America's free Studio program is used for the CAPD classes. It is a graphics program that has the necessary computer aided design functions to create patterns. There are detailed instructions for using all of Studio's CAPD functions on the website Computer Aided Pattern Design. The instructions here show how to use the functions required for specific tasks. Links are included for the CAPD classes that explain in detail how each function is accomplished.

The Classes

Creating a single pattern can require as many as 31 steps to trace the photograph. The videos in these classes are intended as an introduction to the process. References to the pages in Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale are included where the individual steps are described and illustrated.

The classes are created so that the instructions from the website can be viewed in the computer monitor next to the window of the Studio software. Initially the videos can be watched for a quick overview of the process. The videos can then be watched again pausing as necessary while you carry out an individual instruction using the Studio program. The times of each of the videos for the various classes in indicated in parenthesis.

1. The Measurements and Photographs
2. Scaling Measurements & Photos (2:43) [ Pencil & Paper (3:19) ]
3. Back Patterns for Men and Women   (6:51, 4:34) [ Pencil & Paper (11:49, 6:39) ]
4. Front Patterns for Women   (5:56, 4:54) [ Pencil & Paper (10:36, 6:36) ]
5. Front Patterns for Men   (3:48, 2:24) [ Pencil & Paper (5:58, 2:25) ]
6. Truing Patterns   (2:14) [ Pencil & Paper (2:46) ]
7. Verify the Fit with Fabric   (1:42)
8. Designing from Master Patterns   (1:20)