Computer Aided Pattern Design - CAPD

Contents

CAD programs are designed to be used for a wide variety of applications. This means they need to have a lot of different functions. Using CAD to design patterns only requires a small number of these functions so the instructions here are referred to as Computer Aided Pattern Design (CAPD).

Every CAD program is going to work differently for any given function. This can be compared to human languages. There is a function and a tool to achieve the result. For example, in human communication a greeting can be expressed in English with the word "Hello." This is essentially a "tool" to achieve the desired result. Other languages can have different words and phrases to achieve this same function. These classes demonstrate CAPD using the specfic "language" of the free Studio Software that can be downloaded from Silhouette America.

There are two approaches to creating patterns: Bespoke and Ready-to-Wear. Bespoke patterns are created for the shape and size of a specific person. Ready-to-Wear are patterns designed to fit as many bodies as possible. A comparison of these two different approaches is included in the book Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale and described in RTW for Independent Designers.

It is essential for CAPD techniques to have the shape of a three-dimensional body converted to two-dimensional patterns known as Master Patterns (aka Slopers, or Blocks). Sample Master Patterns are included in these instructions so the process of learning how to use CAPD functions can be demonstrated using practical examples.

Studio software is designed for an international audience. Initial setup steps specifiy the language to be used, unit of measurements in inches or centimeters, and A4 or 8-1/2" by 11" copy paper. Basic default settings can be specified so every time the program starts, these settings will appear.

While Studio software includes hundreds of different functions, less than two dozen are required to create and design patterns. This includes commonly used functions such as opening, saving, and printing files. Patterns are created using straight and curved lines of specific shapes and sizes. Patterns can be identified with labels. Once the patterns are initially created, the lines need to be changed to create different designs and adjust the fit.

Once the basic functions are understood they can be used to perform different functions such as scaling the patterns from full size to quarter scale and vice versa, adding and removing seam allowances, determing pattern layout for cutting fabric, and adapting a RTW pattern to the dimensions of a specific body using Made-to-Measure, MTM, techniques. An unlimited number of designs can be created frequently requiring little if any additional fitting.