Creating Bikini Bottoms, Thongs, & Fitted Briefs

During this week you will learn how to create the patterns for Bikini Bottoms, Thongs, and Fitted Briefs. These patterns can be used to create variations. For example the Bikini Bottom pattern can be used to created tied or ring bottoms. It is also modified to create Thongs. These variations are a process of selecting the desired notions and finishing details

Contents

The videos for the basic patterns do not include fitting. The fit will vary depending on the specific style and fabric you use. For example, for thongs I prefer to use non-stretch fabrics. For bikini bottoms and fitted briefs the fit can vary based on whether you use a 1-way or 4-way stretch.

Bikini Bottoms & Thongs

For step-by-step written instructions for creating the basic Bikini Bottom, see pages 33 through 37 of How to Make Custom-Fit Bras & Lingerie. The Bikini Brief Pattern pdf file may be downloaded, printed, and used to create a record of the garments you create.

Design & Measure a Bikini Bottom

DIY Design and Measuring

Drafting a Bikini Bottom

Tied Bikini Bottom

The following instructions show how to create bikini briefs that are tied at the sides. For step-by-step written instructions, see page 39 in the book. The pattern is divided into a front and back section with lining fabric used for both. For the waist ties, add 24" to 1/2 the waist measurement. Cut these ties 2 times the finished width plus 1" for two 1/2" seam allowances.

The Body

Leg Elastic

Waist Tie

Ring Bikini Bottom

This example shows how to create briefs that use two pattern pieces. The front of the briefs are lined and the back isn't. The main difference between the construction of the Ringed Briefs and other Briefs is the installation of the rings. For step-by-step written instructions, see page 40 in the book.

The Design

The Front Pattern

The Back Pattern

Sew the Body

Sew the Leg Elastic

Sew the Waist

The example used for these briefs provided a surprise during the fitting because the fabric stretches both vertically and horizontally. The video below describes how I addressed this issue. This include marking the adjustment on the paper pattern.

Adjusting from a Fitting

Thongs

You can construct a pattern for a Thong using the basic Bikini Bottom pattern. I recommend for the thong that you create a pattern that is the full width of the desired thong. With a full pattern you can avoid mistakes that can be made when you attempt to cut on the fold of the fabric. For step-by-step written instructions, see page 41 in the book.

The Pattern

Prepare the Body

Sew the Leg Elastic

Sew the Waist Elastic

Fitted Briefs

The three variations of the fitted briefs shown above were all made from the instructions here. They can be made from either one, two, or three pattern pieces. For step-by-step written instructions, see pages 44 to 48 in the book. The Fitted Brief Pattern pdf file may be downloaded, printed, and used to create a record of the garments you create. To create a brief using a front and back pattern, see the instructions on page 46 of my book. The videos below show how to sew Fitted Briefs from three pattern pieces. Use the template on page 48 to make a separate crotch pattern piece.

The Pattern

Pattern Tip: Depending on the fabric you are using, instead of cutting the fabric on the fold you can make full paper patterns from side to side. This helps to prevent the fabric from distorting as you cut it.

Design & Measure Fitted Briefs

DIY Design and Measuring

Drafting the Fitted Shorts

Sewing the Briefs

When you are creating the fabric for briefs, you may use a single layer of fashion fabric. The videos show how to use stretch lace on top of a flesh colored spandex lining. You may also select to use either a full or partial lining. These videos show how to use the lining just for the crotch piece.

Prepare the Fabric

Sew the Body for the Fitting

Fit the Briefs

Finishing the Briefs

To achieve the best results, fit the briefs during the construction process. This allows you to compensate for the specific fabric you are using. If you plan on using the same fabric more than once, make a separate pattern and make a note of the specific fabric you use the pattern for.

Add the Waist Elastic, Part One

Add the Waist Elastic, Part Two

Add the Leg Elastic

Draping a Skirt

To add a skirt to the fitted shorts, you can either use a standard Skirt sloper or follow the instructions on pages 49 and 50 of my book and the steps shown in the video below.

If you are using a Skirt sloper for a swimsuit bottom, I would suggest pivoting the darts from the waist to the hem. These skirts are usually short and cut from fabric that drapes nicely so I tend to prefer to keep the shaping to the waistline and the side seams.

Draping a Skirt for Fitted Shorts

Creating Skirted Briefs