Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn
Upper Torso Sloper Home Page ► Week Four
Finalizing the Patterns and Verifying the Fit
During this week you will finalize the patterns. The first step is to transfer all the marks from the fitting shell to the paper pattern. If you are fitting yourself, you will first need to perform the second stage of the fitting.
This stage of the DIY fitting process first establishes the side seam then you can record the neck, armscye, and waist line locations.
DIY - Second Fit
DIY - Adjust Fitting Shell
DIY - Recording the Fit
The marks for the side seam, neck, armscye, and waist need to be transfered back to the paper pattern.
Record the Seams
The side neck, and armscye seams are the last thing to check on the pattern. During the fitting process it is easy to remove the initial ease added to the pattern. It is very important to make sure that you adjust the pattern based on the measurements for your waist (#9) and Bust for women (#6) or Chest for men (#5). For a set of the instructions shown in the videos you can print, use the Adjust for Ease pdf file.
After you have corrected the pattern, do another fitting to verify that the grain of the fitting shell is correct around the entire circumference of your body.
Adjusting the Curved Seams
Adjusting for Ease
It is a good idea to do one final fitting check. During this stage I like to stay stitch around the neck and armscye seams, then turn and top stitch the seam allowances. This gives you the best way of verifying that all the seam lines are in the best possible location.
Sewing to Verify
Verify the Fit
Copyright © 2007, & 2020 by Donald H. McCunn